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Camino de Santiago (French Way): Logistics and Planning Tips

Camino de Santiago (French Way): Logistics and Planning Tips

The Camino de Santiago, particularly the French Way (Camino Francés), is a profound journey through Spain, often taken by those seeking a mix of adventure, self-discovery, and cultural connection. If you’re planning to walk this iconic route, here’s everything you need to know about the logistics to ensure a smooth and memorable experience.

Content

  • Getting to SJPP

  • What to pack

  • The Pilgrim Stamp Passport/Credential

  • Apps for the Trail

  • Planning Your Route and Stops

  • Accommodation

  • Other Tips and Recommendations


Getting to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, France (Starting Point)

Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port (SJPP), a charming town in the French Pyrenees, is the traditional starting point of the Camino Francés. Here are most common ways to get here:

  • Fly into Biarritz or Bayonne: Both cities are the closest major transportation hubs to SJPP. From the airport in Biarritz, you can take a bus or taxi to Bayonne train station.

    • Train from Bayonne to SJPP: From Bayonne, trains run to SJPP several times a day. The train ride is about 1.5 hours and offers scenic views of the French countryside.

  • Fly into Madrid: If flying from overseas, the cheapest flights are probably to Madrid. You can take a train from Madrid to Pamplona (there are multiple a day) but if you want to catch the bus to SJPP, there in only one that runs a day so you have to time your train accordingly. Train takes about 3 hours.

    • Bus from Pamplona to SJPP: Purchase online or at the station, this is the cheapest and easiest way to get to SJPP. Notes that the bus station is in the city so you have to take a local bus from the train station to the bus station.

    • Taxi to SJPP: There are taxis waiting outside the train station and a ride to SJPP is about 90 euros, which could be feasible if you have others to share with and/or you miss the bus.

  • [TIP] Arrive a Day Early: Arriving early gives you time get your credential and ask any questions at the office, gather last-minute supplies, and explore the town before beginning your walk (SJPP is a really cute town!) in the morning since the first day is a long one.


What to Pack

Packing light is essential! Here’s a checklist of Camino essentials to bring:

  • Backpack: Aim for a lightweight, 30-40L backpack. You’ll want one with a comfortable frame, good support, and hip straps.

    • I used the REI Trail 40 (this is my normal traveling backpack but had enough structure for the camino)

  • Clothing: Quick-dry, moisture-wicking layers. Generally, two outfits for hiking and one for the evening are sufficient.

    • Hiking

      • 2 moisture-wicking shirts

      • 1 pair of hiking pants/leggings

      • 1 pair of hiking shorts

    • Evening

      • 1 lounge shirt

      • 1 pair of lounge shorts/pants

    • Undergarments

      • 2 sports bras

      • 5 pairs of underwear

      • 3 pairs of socks (1 hiking, 1 liner, 1 lounge)

    • Lightweight jacket and/or fleece

    • Rain poncho or jacket (essential — it always rains in Galicia)

    • Bathing suit (if you are walking in the summer)

    • [Tips]

      • Check the weather! I didn’t check the weather for mid-Sep to mid-Oct and it was a lot colder than I had anticipated.

      • You need less than you think! Since you will be washing your clothes regularly, you don’t need to bring much. There are also ample of places to buy anything that you might need.

  • Footwear: 1 pair of walking shoes and 1 pair of sandals

    • Walking shoes

      • There is A LOT of debate about footwear. This is arguably one of the most important items for the camino because blisters, shin splints, etc will drastically impact your experience.

      • You can bring hiking shoes, trail runners, running shoes, hiking sandals, etc. but make sure they fit your feet well with enough support and will be good on different terrain (gravel, dirt, pavement, etc.)

      • I used Altra Lone Peak 8 and didn’t have any blisters and they were super comfortable on all different terrain! But I did get shin splints… I’m not sure from the shoes or from not being used to the walking

    • Sandals

      • For days you want to give your feet a breather, you can hike in sandals instead. They are also great lounge / evening footwear.

  • Sleeping: Some albergues (hostels) don’t provide bedding or blankets, so a lightweight sleeping bag or liner is recommended.

  • Toiletries and First-Aid: Basic toiletries, plus blister treatment (e.g., Compeed or Leukotape), sunscreen, and pain relievers.

  • Other Essentials:

    • Water bottle (refillable at water fountains)

    • Trekking poles (helpful for steep sections) — I didn’t use with them but they do come in handy for any inclines / declines, especially if you have weak ankles or knees. You can buy them in SJPP if you don’t want to travel with them.

    • Power bank for your phone and charging cables

    • Headlamp for early starts

    • Speakers were really useful for group meals and evenings (we used it every night)

    • Microfiber towel for quick-drying

      • I used a sarong, which doesn’t dry as fast, but is multi-use for lounging on the grass, as a cover-up, etc

    • Journal to document your experience and jot down thoughts you have as you walk

    • Laundry detergent to wash your clothes by hand or with a machine

    • Hat for sun protection

    • Wet wipes for any potential accidents (like a cat peeing on my backpack…)

    • Headphones to listen to a podcast or song during your walk (I tried to keep this to a minimal but still very useful)

    • Kindle to read during your down time (I went through 2 books and having the physical books would’ve weighed down my bag)

    • Camino credential and passport to show at every albergue to check-in and at the end to collect your final credential


The Pilgrim Stamp Passport/Credential

The Credencial del Peregrino (Pilgrim Passport) is a must-have item on the Camino:

  • Where to Get It: You can obtain your pilgrim passport at the pilgrim office in SJPP, from some churches along the way, or even order one online before you arrive.

  • Purpose: The passport is stamped at each stop (albergue, church, café) to document your journey. You are required to have at least 2 stamps for the last 100 km to receive the Compostela certificate in Santiago.


Apps for the Trail

Several apps are designed specifically for pilgrims on the Camino, providing route maps, accommodation options, and to plan out your daily routes:

  • [App I used] Buen Camino App: This app has detailed information about the Camino routes, including distances, elevation profiles, and towns along the way. It’s a popular choice for navigation and planning.

    • I used the map function to ensure I was on the right path (yellow path on the map) because Google Maps or Maps.Me didn’t have the entire camino trail

    • I used the “Plan your daily route” function to plan my day to day and see all the towns and albergues along the way. I used this to know how long we were walking each day, where we could stop for a coffee/snack, and where our destination was.

  • Camino Ninja: An app known for its offline capabilities and accommodation recommendations. It offers updates on albergue capacity and real-time pilgrim experiences.

  • Wise Pilgrim: This app includes maps, elevation data, and an option to track your location, along with advice on local amenities.


Planning Your Route and Stops

While some pilgrims prefer spontaneous stops, planning key stages can be beneficial to ensure you can stop at the towns you want to or visit a certain festival. Here’s how to approach it:

  • Daily Stages: Most pilgrims walk between 20-25 km per day (I averaged 16 miles per day), though distances vary based on personal preference and fitness levels.

    • My shortest day was 5 miles / 7 km and my longest was 27 miles / 43 km — the days vary so allow your body to adapt and rest as needed

    • You can decide each day where you want to go. If the weather turns, or you don’t feel like walking, you can make a decision along the way to stop, even if just for a coffee.

  • Popular Stops: The French Way passes through notable towns like Pamplona, Logroño, Burgos, León, and Sarria, each with unique history and culture. You can make a decision to stop in these bigger towns and more popular towns, or stay in smaller ones that are quieter.

    • Note that the route gets very busy starting in Sarria and you should consider staying in towns outside of the recommended.

  • Rest Days: Consider taking one or two rest days in larger cities (e.g., Burgos or León) to recover, sightsee, and experience the local culture.

    • I took a rest day in Burgos because my body was really aching for one and it helped me recover from shin splints.

  • Follow the shell or yellow arrow: The trail is very well marked by a shell or yellow arrows so even without checking your phone you should be able to find your way. The only times it can get a bit tricky is leaving a major city like Leon.

  • [Tips] Be flexible! There are recommended paths that many stick to and may even book accommodations for way in advanced. However, you can’t predict what will happen with your body, your mood, the people you meet, and what you don’t know you don’t know.


Accommodation

Where you sleep each night can be decided as you walk. Some might feel more comfortable knowing they have a bed but in most instances you should be able to just walk-up somewhere and get a bed. This allows for ample flexibility.

  • Albergues: Like hostels, these are the most budget-friendly option, with beds in a shared room. They range from $7-15/bed. There are privately owned albergues that are a bit more expensive but usually nicer or municipals that usually have a lot more beds for a cheaper price.

  • Donativos: Donation-based albergues that are run by volunteers (ex/current pilgrims) and they have the most camino spirit because some offer communal meals and shared experiences (reflections, mass). Some of my favorites are in:

    • Granon

    • Tosantos

    • Bercianos

    • Ponderrada

  • Privates: If you want your own private space, you can book these ahead of time via booking.com or airbnb. They are usually more expensive than than albergues with limited availability.

  • [Tips]

    • Sarria can get busy! Since many start in Sarria, if you have a big group you should book ahead of time (1 day before) to ensure your group has beds.

    • Consider Airbnbs in bigger cities! If you want a change to albergues (I know I did — a proper bed and towel were to die for), check airbnb and booking.com. We book our own place in Burgos, Leon, and Santiago.


Other Advice and Recommendations

  • Food: Carry water and snacks to stay hydrated and fed throughout the day. There will be cafes in every village where you can stop for a coffee, juice, and/or food (tortillas or Spanish Omletes are the simple of the Camino). Many places will also offer a Pilgrim menu (~$15 for an appetizer, main, and drink). We usually opted for cooking our own meals because it was a lot cheaper (groceries were usually ~$6 per person)

  • Your Pace: Walk at a comfortable pace for your body. It’s easy to get caught up in the momentum of other pilgrims, but prioritize your own well-being, especially in the beginning when you are still trying to adapt to the daily strain of walking.

    • Many younger pilgrims get to excited in the beginning so they walk faster and longer, which in turn created a lot of issues. For example, I got shin splints, others got really bad blisters and knee problems. Pace is the name of the game.

  • Learn Some Spanish: Basic Spanish will go a long way, especially in smaller towns. Greetings, food orders, and basic phrases for directions are very helpful.

  • Connect with Fellow Pilgrims: The Camino’s social aspect / community is one of its highlights. Be open to conversations and shared meals. You’ll meet people from all over the world with diverse backgrounds and stories.

  • “The Way” is your way: Do the camino as you want to. Don’t feel pressured to walk with others, walk faster or slower than you want to, or change your plans if you don’t want to. It’s okay to say no and do your own thing. Everyone is supportive and understanding.

  • Buy a local sim: I bought a Spanish eSim just to ensure I could be connected when I wanted to be. Some albergues don’t have wifi and since I was committed to posting regularly, I needed good connections.

  • Attach a shell to your backpack: Since the shell is the symbol of the camino, you will see it everywhere, especially on backpacks of every pilgrim. You can get one at any camino office.

  • Be Present and Reflective: Finally, the Camino is as much an inward journey as it is a physical one. Embrace the solitude, connect with nature, and allow yourself to be open to the insights and inspiration that often arise on the path.

Walking the Camino Francés is a transformative journey filled with beauty, challenge, and camaraderie. By planning your logistics thoughtfully but flexibly, packing wisely, and embracing each day’s unique experiences, you’ll set yourself up for a pilgrimage that leaves a lasting impact. Buen Camino!

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